Rhapsody and Requiem ascent for Pouvreau and Pinet
Trad climbing high level at Dumbarton Rock for French climbers11 September 2018
Luxury trad ascent for Gerome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet in the UK where they repeated Rhapsody, E11 7A, and Requiem E8 6B respectively.
A journey into the cradle of trad climbing for the French couple Gerome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet, names that certainly do not require large presentations but rarely measured themselves with climbing with quick protection. The two in fact have hit the climbs of two equally famous routes, Rhapsody, E11 7A, for Gerome and Requiem E8 6B for Florence.
"Rhapsody was always a dream for me" says Pouvreau, "for the beauty of the line, its commitment, its history ... the first ascent was in 2006 by Dave McLeod and his famous film has always been a great inspiration for me but also very impressive. This year with Flo we wanted to make a 100% trad journey and I could not miss the chance to face this myth! If the line is so wonderful, the same can not be said of the place, with debris and pieces of glass at the base. But just go out a few miles to be immersed in the magnificent Scottish countryside. After an initial crack, there are two hard boulder moves. Movements are always forced, difficult and technical. At 15 meters you risk falling and you're only protected by two micronut!
We started to work together but soon Flo realized that in such a short time she would not have come to resolve, so she concentrated on Requiem, which like Rhapsody has a nice long and dangerous fall. So it is not jealous!
At the fourth day, despite the rains that are never lacking here, I decide to try the route placing the protections from beginning. Control the fear and emotions and Rhapsody falls! Two days later Flo resolved Requiem and we can then head towards the blocks of the Peak District ... and some more trad! "