The great projects of Ghisolfi and Marin
Stefano is working a really hart sport climbing route and Edu is preparing a strong first free ascent on multipitch04 October 2019
Work in progress on projects that on paper have all the requirements to prove really super for italian champion Stefano Ghisolfi and for the Spanish ace Edu Marin, the first on the crag and the second on the wall.
Stefano in fact put his hand back to a pitch he had tried a long time ago with Adam and then suspended because "it could not be a short-term project"! Coming from them, this must be something really incredible
What is it? We are at the Laghel crag, near Arco di Trento, where, first Adam in 2017 and then Stefano at the beginning of the year, had climbed Queen Line, which they graded 9b. From the end of the route, however, a 15-meter section starts that represents the crux (exact, the hard part is AFTER a 9b!) of a new pitch that is to be freed. Here are some details of King Line, which Stefano says is "the most beautiful and beautiful line of the entire wall, which passes exactly in the center".
What can come out of it is crazy. For now Ghisolfi is still struggling with a sequence that does not want to give up, then it will be a question of linking everything together. How hard could all this be? Impossible to say before, but on one thing Stefano is certain: "King Line will make Perfecto Mundo (9b + climbed by Stefano) look like a walk in the park". Help!!!
Ghisolfi has obviously widened the invitation to try it also to his friends Alex Megos and to the same Adam Ondra, we will see who among the three will prevail. Of course just seeing them climb together on this beast would be a pure show.
The new project by Edu Marin is also bestial. Not far from home, in Monteserrat, he announced that he will attempt the first free ascent of Rainbow, a route opened in Plàtan de Diables by Armand Ballart and German Folch in 1979. The route is now graded 6a / A2 and is about 300 meters long, but the sections to be freed are anything but easy to approach. In fact, Armand and German had used for their climb some protection items bought in a normal hardware store, not exactly the best for flying over, even ten meters.
Edu, having heard the opinion of the opener and the park, worked hard to fix the way for the free ascent, without risking a free dangerous one but all in the rigid ethics of Montserrat. "The difficulties, after the first 6b, are 8b or 8b + for the second while for the third, although I cannot confirm for now, it should be around 8c or 8c+. The fourth is 8a+ while the fifth could be 8b.” Trilling!
news stefano fb page / woguclimbing.com